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Bella Atina Restaurant Review
© October 2006 issue
Bella Atina
Kermon House, The Mall
North Quay, Drogheda
041 9844878
It happens every year and the occasion has to be marked with mirth, merriment
and feasting according to the children. We’re talking about Madame’s birthday
and this year the festivities were held at Bella Atina, a ristorante Italiano in
neighbouring Drogheda. The ancient city of Atina is part of Lazio and Campania,
a region in Italy near Rome. Bella Atina is easier to find, it’s on the North
Quay, opposite Scotch Hall, which means that you can avoid a few million traffic
lights by parking at Scotch Hall, walking over the footbridge and turning right,
towards the coast. There is parking directly outside as well but for that you’ll
have to brave the traffic over St Mary’s Bridge. We did and were rewarded with
free parking thanks to a kindly African family who offered us their pay and
display ticket with 90 minutes remaining on it.
The view from the outside is inviting, with an authentic looking awning coming
down to cover a pavement dining area, ideal for the warm summer evenings or
maybe just for cold smokers. Even thought it was overcast on the September
evening we visited, there were a few smokers sheltering under the cover. Once
inside, we were warmly welcomed. The children had rushed to finish their
homework so that at 6:30pm, we were the first guests of the evening. A high
chair was efficiently produced for the young toddler, who has started gently
exploring the “terrible” part of being two. But he liked his new chair at the
head of the table.
The older children got to sit on a nice long upholstered bench with their backs
to the open brick faced walls. A map of Italia and an old movie poster of Gina
Lollobrigida looked down upon them. The tables were all set with red cloths over
a white undercloth. The menus arrived very quickly and despite the ornate
typing, it was soon discovered that they didn’t include a children’s section.
Not a problem as how could any child leave hungry from an Italian restaurant
when pasta, spaghetti and pizza are some of the national dishes. Their decisions
were made in seconds.
 The
decisions for the adults were a little more tricky. The menu offered a range of
Antipasta starters, from €4.50 for a Mixed Salad up to €10.80 for a Gamberetti
(prawn cocktail) con Avocado, with Bruschettas (€5.80) and Funghi Stufati con
carne macinata a Brandy (€8.50, mushrooms stuffed with mince in a brandy cream
sauce) dishes and garlic bread dishes also on offer.
Primi-Pasta dishes included Spaghetti in the Napoletana, Carbonara, con
Gamberetti and Bolognese variations as well as Penne Amatriciana, alla vodka,
all’arrabbiata, and Salmone. Then came the Fettuccine as either Alfredo or alla
Boscaiola. Of course there was Tortellini (€11.50), Lasagna (€12.00)and
Cannelloni (€12.00) The Fillet steaks were €24.50 each for either al Pepe or ai
Funghi with the chicken dishes at €15.50 for Pollo al Marsala or ai Funghi.
There was a full selection of pizzas around the €10.50 - €11.50 mark.
While all the reading was going on, the drink orders were taken, fizzy drinks
for the older children as it was a special treat, orange juice for the toddler
and some glasses of wine for the adults. House white please, as we hadn’t
discovered the wine list on the back of the menus. The children’s drinks arrived
in bottles with straws, which was very good as the toddler didn’t really realise
that he had got something different from his siblings. Then the orders were
taken.
Although it didn’t mention it on the menu, the young gentleman was offered a
children’s portion of Spaghetti Bolognese while there was a choice in size of
the Pizza Margherita to share between the 6 and 2 year old. The larger 12”
version was chosen.
The restaurant was nicely divided by the brick arches into three discrete
sections. Soon other guests arrived and were wisely seated relatively out of
earshot of the toddler. Unfortunately we were seated under a hi-fi speaker which
blared out tourist Italian music, it was just a bit too loud. Garlic bread
arrived, pizza shaped, one with mozzarella cheese, the other without. The
toddler exclaimed ‘Pizza’ and munched into a cheese slice with relish. The
children also went for cheese, although slightly wary of the garlic taste. The
adults were left with the ordinary garlic bread. It had a lovely thin crust, the
garlic was very light but unfortunately it had been done just a little too long
with some burnt pieces spoiling the flavour. As there were no takers for the
last slice, the plates were cleared by our very friendly, black clad waitress.
By now, the music had turned into tourist English lyrics, “That’s Amore” belted
out. The children asked how long it would be until the main courses arrived. Ten
or fifteen minutes can seem like an eternity to a 7 year old, never mind a 2
year old, but at least now they had eaten something. When the adults tried to
have some conversation without being interrupted, they were told that “adults
talk for hours.” Not if they’re married, or definitely not if they have
children, thought Madame. A kindly storm brough a power cut the very next
evening to prove her wrong.. Fortunately the mains arrived after about 5
minutes.
The children’s portion of Spaghetti Bolognese was huge and steaming. The garnish
on top caused a little confusion but the little eyes danced contentedly. The
Toddler had more very thin crusted pizza to share with his big sister, which
reassured him that it must be ok to eat. All declared their dishes to be
delicious.
Madame had ordered Monsieur’s first choice, Fettuccine alla Boscaiola, which is
pasta cooked with mushrooms, peas and bacon in a cream sauce. Monsieur had then
opted for the Tortellini, a pasta stuffed with spinach and ricotta, also in a
cream sauce. The tortellini came in a very sweet sauce, with just a little too
much salt, although the portion sizes were good. After about half a plate, the
sweetness began to overpower the taste buds. Madame’s Fettuccine was tasty at
first, but the strong seasoning also soon took its toll. Her dish was so rich,
creamy and strong, it was described as a heart attack waiting to happen. Lots of
flavour but maybe too much.
A country and western song was now playing over the speakers much to the delight
of the toddler who bopped his head with the rhythm. It was now past his bedtime
and he was doing well. The 7 year old fought manfully, he finished the long
spaghetti but a lot of sauce was left on the plate. By now the restaurant was
half full, older couples, younger couples, a group of young girls, some French
tourists. The 7Up was helping the children get giddy and “drunk” so ice-creams
were ordered as an antidote. More like petrol on the flames.
Desserts on offer included Tiramisu, Cassata, Torta Mele Casalinga (pastry tart
filled with liqueur soaked sponge layers, topped with apple) and Pear and Almond
Torta, all priced at €5.50. The main courses had been so filling that the adults
were unable to try the desserts this time! Cappuccino and Espresso was ordered
instead. The children’s large gelato arrived, beautiful strong flavoured
chocolate and vanilla for the toddler. The 7 year old had opted for chocolate
sauce on his chocolate ice cream. Overdose time. The cappuccino was very milky
as well. The Chef’s palette must be more partial than most to very strong
flavours.
Outside people scurried past with rain bouncing off umbrellas. Inside everyone
was very content, apart from the toddler who’d had enough of sitting. It was
time to explore, toss, challenge and climb over people. A subtle cue to leave.
The bill arrived with a mint each on the plate. The service had been very good
all night so when it came to pay with chip and pin, a decent tip was in order.
While Monsieur concentrated on this, the toddler decided to help himself to
Dada’s mint. He was apprehended just before things got ugly. We left happily
with very full tummies.
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The
Meath Coaster
