|
| |
The Cottage Bistro Restaurant Review
© August 2005 issue
The Cottage Bistro, Laytown, Co. Meath
041 9887444
We parked directly outside the Cottage Bistro on a lovely summer’s evening. Some
Spanish girls were chatting at the bus-stop beside us. Golden sunlight shone all
over the beach where the river Nanny meets the sea. The Bistro was opened just
over six weeks ago, upstairs above the pub but a world away. Walking up the
stairs, we could hear the sound of laughter and happy voices. We were greeted
immediately upon entering by a friendly waitress and then by the Service manager
who beckoned us over to a lovely table for two beside a window. Although it was
warm and humid outside, inside was a pleasant temperature.
The bistro looked lovely. It had a Mediterranean-contemporary feel. There was
plenty of wood finishing, polished wooden floors, oak panelling around the
open-kitchen and bar area, sturdy wooden chairs and rustic tables with a tiled
centre. Little candles, tea-lights, lit up two of the walls and summer paintings
were hung. Two rows of hanging lights on the ceiling drew you into the
restaurant which was spacious and airy. It all worked, together with the
sunlight and beach views, to create a hint of patio al fresco dining.
The menus were presented with everything visible at a glance. The starters were
immediately enticing and ranged in price from €4.50 to €9.50. There were at
least four starters we wanted to try. The Thai fish patties sounded like it had
to be tried as did the pâté served with fruit chutney and warm brioche. Madame
chose the melon rosette with prosciutto ham and an exotic salsa twist as her
starter. Monsieur spotted a Bruschetta of goat’s cheese and couldn’t resist it.
The mains were priced from €16 to €21 and included a wide selection of steaks,
gourmet pizzas and pasta dishes. Then there was a variety of daily specials on
the boards around the restaurant. Again the choice wasn’t easy, but was made. A
half bottle of Lindemann’s Chardonnay was also requested.
No sooner had the menu’s been taken than the bread arrived. A dark walnut
treacle and a light cracked pepper selection, served in a cute flower pot. Both
were delicious but we had been warned to expect ample portions so neither was
finished.
As we sat we had a chance to look around. The other diners were all discretely
spaced apart from each other. Everyone looked to be dining with friends or
family, the ambience was very relaxed. Two young ladies together, a table of
four more senior friends, some husband and wife couples, other tables of mature
friends. The upbeat, light Spanish music in the background meant that the few
cars outside drifted silently past. The attention to detail all over the
restaurant was evident. Outside the window box overflowed with flowering
geraniums, begonias and busy lizzies. Jars of oil-filled baby tomatoes and
rosemary were on the inside window ledge beside other fruit.
The wine came chilled to perfection. The designated driver didn’t decline her
glass. The starters arrived and prompted admiring intakes of breath. The
presentation was a work of art. The taste was a wonder. The melon rosette and
prosciutto was light and refreshing. The creamy goats cheese melted in the mouth
and was surprisingly subtle. Helpings of each others starter were exchanged
across the table as the portions were just right. Both plates were soon emptied
and then immediately cleared by friendly black-attired staff. The music had
changed into English now, still upbeat.
We had a few moments to enjoy the wine and the view. The setting sun was
lighting up
everything is a warm glow. Through a sunlight in the roof over the bar area, it
fell on the racks of wine turning them into a feature of the room. The Spanish
girls had strolled off toward the beach. The main courses arrived. Monsieur had
chosen the Espetatas, a Portugese speciality, chicken or beef char-grilled and
skewered with peppers and vegetables. Maybe on your holidays to the
Mediterranean you saw it served on a sword. No need for such gimmicks in the
Bistro, the food could speak for itself. It came with steamed rice and a
barbecue dipping sauce.
Madame had chosen the honey braised shank of lamb. A brave choice for someone
who grew up on a New Zealand sheep farm. Again the presentation of both was
simply artistic. Again the taste was wondrous. The lamb was mouth-wateringly
tender, full of flavour. There was a cheese element to the potatoes, parmesan
and mozzarella. Madame didn’t know how that could work but somehow it did, to
perfection. The chicken espetatas was succulent, tasty, grilled to perfection
without being too dry. It had a hint of coconut to add to the exotic dish.
As we happily ate, every now and then the trains silently arrived bringing home
more natives of the Meath coast. The roadway outside was briefly full of people
walking home alongside the sea in the evening sunshine. We watched them thinking
how lucky we all were to live in such a place where we might enjoy truly world
class cooking in a rural coastal setting. The Bistro would probably have ten
times the turnover in the centre of Dublin or Belfast. It would be raved about
in the newspaper life-style sections. There would be rumours of Michelin stars
and other awards. Here on the coast, it is still a hidden gem.
But we weren’t finished. There were still desserts to be enjoyed. Monsieur
picked an iced-coffee and walnut parfait with summer fruits. Madame had a lemon
panacotta with an orange and passion fruit salad. Both arrived soon and were as
good as everything that had gone before. Both were excellent summer desserts,
not too heavy, refreshing subtle flavours and tastes.
Expresso and Latte coffees were ordered. You wanted to linger longer in this
place. But there was a baby sitter with a crying baby to rescue. With the bill
came a parting surprise to taste. Homemade and delicious. The total came to
€84.80 including wine which was paid with chip and pin. As we left, the Chef was
vigorously scrubbing the cooking surface like a surgeon scrubbing his hands.
If you have a birthday, a friend or parent’s birthday, a spouse’s anniversary, a
romantic outing, passed an exam, visiting friends or just want to enjoy cooking
that happens to be world class, then you need go no further than Laytown. The
service manager with practised professionalism saw us out and wished us a speedy
return. So do I.
The Bistro offers a Sunday menu that is priced around €20 per person. §
|
The
Meath Coaster
