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Martello's Restaurant Review
© July 2005 issue
Martello's, Millmount Drogheda
041 9835741
Martello's is under new management
since this review was conducted.
We were drawn to this restaurant because of its location. High on the hill
overlooking the Boyne, set amidst the beautiful barrack buildings of a King
George who had lost one colony to an American Republic and who made sure not to
lose another. The Martello tower from which the restaurant takes its name, is in
the same complex. We had heard mixed reports of this eatery.
The restaurant is in one of the two-storey Georgian buildings. Downstairs is the
reception area and a bar with overflow dining seating. The impression is faded,
the furniture seems old and worn, one of the speakers on the wall was blown so
that the music was warbled. We were greeted by the Service Manager, clad head to
toe in trendy black. Our table would be ready for us in a moment, In the
meantime, would we like a drink and a seat downstairs while reading the menus. I
asked for a glass of Guinness. Not available. Then a Kir please. The Service
Manager had not heard of such a thing but understood the recipe, i.e. a glass of
white wine and a dash of cassis. Not a good start. No-one likes being held in a
waiting area just to have a drink when you could go straight to your table. If
we want a drink, we know some great pubs….
 We
read the menu. All the gluten free dishes were clearly marked. A very good idea
long overdue in many other establishments. There was an Italian theme but it did
not stop there. Starters ranged from €4.60 to €9.00, the pasta dishes were
available as both starters and mains ranging from €10 to €13.50, pizza was in a
similar price range, vegetarian dishes were €11-€12 while fish and chicken
dishes ranged from €17 upwards. The steaks started at €22. All bases were
covered.
After a while we were led upstairs. Not all the tables were full. We could
indeed have been seated at our table immediately. There was a lively chatter
from the room and an assortment of diners. A table of ladies, probably work
colleagues; a family 50th birthday celebration party. The views of Drogheda were
as stunning as it gets, but we barely glimpsed them.
We were led past empty tables to an alcove at the very back. The bold table
according to Madame who had to look at the wall. A dating couple in their late
twenties who had also been held downstairs, were then sin-binned across from us.
Full of hope and hunger, we ordered. Three small slices of onion bread then
arrived in a basket. Were they trying to start an argument?
We looked around at the dining area. This place definitely had potential. Lovely
high ceilings with rafters visible, original polished wooden floors, simple
wooden tables, framed Georgian windows overlooking the town, river and busy
roads. But the thin wooden partition walls beside us were covered in a painted
fake sandstone block. It looked jaded.
An extension had been added to the original building, offering the best views.
Through a window in the thick original walls, we could see an empty table for
two beaconing, with an excellent view. We decided to ask to be moved once the
Service manager returned. Back he came, with a husband and wife couple and sat
them down at this table. It was another unwelcome gesture.
Artificial flowers shielded the couple from our envious glances. The dating
couple’s food arrived first although they had ordered after us. Then the
starters arrived for the lucky couple with the view. Not good. A few minutes
later, our food arrived, well presented and good portions. My bruchette with
tomatoes was crispy but lacked flavour. Madame’s deep fried Brie with a red
onion garnish was delicious. I had made the wrong choice and was still hungry.
She cleaned her plate. And waited.
The plates were slow in coming and slow in the going. By now there was a
sweepstake as
to which table would be cleared first. Next to us, the lucky couple decided to
clear their own table. A waitress finally came to help. Their uniform was red
and black, the anarchist’s colours. Maybe that was the secret to understanding
this restaurant. Again we waited.
Eventually a waitress arrived with two large main dishes. Wrong table. She
retreated. The Service Manager followed up with a large glass of red wine. Again
wrong table and another Italian retreat. Finally our food did appear. a
delicious, very creamy lemon chicken tagiatelli for Monsieur and Thai chicken
for Madame.
This time it was I who had made the right choice. The chicken was too oily and
spicy, not light as Thai chicken should be. Another hit and miss affair. Both
main dishes came with ample pasta or noodles but a side order of potatoes or
chips had still been suggested.
After finishing the mains, we were reminded of reflection time before the
dessert menu’s were offered. I even stopped ordering wine. The choice of
desserts at €7 each included apple pie, bread and butter pudding, tiramisu and
madame’s choice, chocolate melt cake. And a wait. Let us only mention the good.
When it came, the vanilla ice cream was home made. What the chocolate melt cake
lacked in quality it made up for in quantity. The following espresso was
genuine.
As the evening grew late, many of the other diners had left leaving the tables
in the extension room empty. We decided to at least have one look at the view
before we left. It was a nice view. The price came to €66.30. You feel
compassion for staff who work hard to give you a good experience, people who
smile and make you feel at ease that they know what they are doing. There were
indeed some people like that at Martello’s but nowhere near enough. Take your
chances for a hit or miss here. We will not be returning soon while the
anarchists reign. §
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The
Meath Coaster
