d Hotel Restaurant Review
© July 2006 issue
d Hotel, Scotch Hall, Drogheda
041 9877700
Its been a while since our restaurant
reviewers have managed to squeeze their contribution into the increasingly
crowded pages of the Coaster. Not for want of trying. A review trip to a nearby
Meath village had to be abandoned during the middle of one of the spring flu
epidemics. This was because when we got to the restaurant, on a dark Wednesday
night, the entire staff had been struck down leaving a skeleton replacement
crew. It would not have been fair to judge the restaurant on that basis.
But our new increased size Coaster has
some space for us again. So like happy little children, we finally organised the
baby-sitter, and skipped off to the “d Hotel”. Most of us living on the Meath
coast can get to the d Hotel, which is in Drogheda beside Scotch Hall, without
passing a single traffic light. This is accomplished by taking the Marsh Road
alongside the banks of the Boyne Estuary. It was a fine, near mid-summers
evening when we made the trip and the outgoing tide was nearly full.
Parking was easy, right outside the
modern glass-boxed, 4 star hotel. The impression from the front is one of
contemporary 21st century pan-European design. We walked through the
spacious lobby to the rear where, alongside the river banks, the bar area
blended into the restaurant. A large tropical fish tank separated the two. Both
hummed lively with people. The décor was entirely contemporary. We were greeted
and seated immediately by the service manager. Madame got the view out to the
terrace and promenade where people in the bar section sat enjoying the summer’s
evening. I got the view of the clean cut square arches. It reminded me that I
admire some of Albert Speer’s architecture.
 The
service manager brought us menus and made us aware of the Table d’hote offering
of a three course meal and coffees for €37.50 each although she also pointed out
that some dishes entailed a small supplement. We were also given the A la Carte
menu. And so to the menu contents.
Starters on the A la Carte menu ranged
from €7.50 for a Roasted bell pepper and tomato soup with vodka crème fraiche
upwards to €12.50 for the Tian of crab with baby cress, plum tomato sorbet,
brunoise of avocado and aged balsamic. Mains were priced from €19 for the
vegetarian dish to €26 for the 10oz fillet steak with confit of garlic mash,
spinach puree and peppercorn sauce. Fortunately much of the A la Carte menu was
on the special offer Table d’Hote menu. Still both menues took some reading as
the descriptions were subtle and Madame commented that just about everything
sounded nice. In the meantime, bread baskets discretely appeared and water
glasses were filled.
Finally decisions were made. Madame
decided on the pressed terrine of Duck, quail and foie gras starter while
Monsieur opted for the Glazed Asparagus spears wrapped in Bayonne ham. Something
you wouldn’t get at home everyday then. The order was taken by another waiter,
dressed entirely in black. He suggested side orders, Madame decided on Green
Beans. As we started on the bread, couples were seated at the tables alongside
us and the restaurant was packed. There were several groups of parties out for
the night and many surprisingly young couples, some clearly out to impress their
partners, with 4 star prices.
Wine was ordered from a small but
comprehensive wine list. We opted for a Sauvignon blanc fron Chile, a De
Martini. No sooner had it arrived than a large tray of Kir Royale made its way
past us to one of the party tables. That would have been a better aperitif but
they weren’t on the menu.
The starters arrived very fast. Food is
enjoyed with the eyes and nose as well as the mouth and we had to pause to
admire the beautifully presented plates. These were very artistically done. I
soon tucked into the asparagus. Continental Europeans love asparagus where it is
prized as a real delicacy. Here is Ireland, we take it pretty much for granted.
This dish was served with a soft poached egg with a truffle and oil emulsion.
The Bayonne ham around the asparagus almost melted in the mouth. The sauce
became nicer with each mouthful as you got more used to the unusual taste. It
was very good.
 Madame’s
Terrine of duck, quail and foie gras came with a toasted brioche, caramelised
peach, thyme praline and hazelnut dressing. It was served on a glass square
plate and tasted delicious. Our starters were soon no more. And the plates
discretely disappeared. New modern designer cutlery appeared, the knives for
example balancing on their blade face downwards.
The staff all walked very fast, giving
an impression of purposeful efficiency. Large trays were carried on one hard
over the shoulder. They were obviously well trained. So it was relatively easy
to spot the recent hires, one of whom was assigned to our table. All the female
staff wore ponytails, black shirts and trousers and long traditional aprons.
Between courses we were served with a
surprise sorbet of crème fraiche and passion fruit. This was chilled, not frozen
with a hint of mint to leave a refreshing taste. Then the main courses came,
again presented to perfection. These included a Saltimbocca of Monkfish with
crushed spring peas, red wine reduction and whipped potatoes for Madame and a
fillet of Salmon with basil creamed orzo pasta, pernod froth and glaze baby
fennel for myself. Oh, and green beans.
The salmon was huge and beautifully
cooked, lightly crispy on the outside, succulent on the inside. The creamy
rice-pasta again melted in the mouth. The monkfist was also given a thumbs up
although Madame later admitted that she would have chosen the Duck for her main
course next time. The food was simply very good. This chef and his/her team knew
what they were doing. Everything was making a good impression, that is until the
Sinatra style music in the bar kicked in at 10pm. A disadvantage of sharing the
space with the bar area become apparent.
Desserts had to be tried and Madame
chose a white Fondant while I opted for the Assiette of Berries. This dish
brought me back to childhood years eating large, fresh, wild blackberries,
strawberries and raspberries from the bushes and plants. They were crammed full
of taste. Madame ventured that it was worth coming just for the desserts. Double
espressos were ordered to finish the meal. Our new waitress had a small mix-up
with the bill which was soon corrected. No doubt she will be well trained very
soon. We walked out through the foyer and had our parking ticket validated and
drove back home along the Boyne. It is easy to get to the restaurant in the d
Hotel and it is well worth the trip.
| 
The
Meath Coaster
